Halifax

Our main objectives in Halifax were finding a shower and touring the Citadel. The YMCA welcomed us in for a free shower and we found a good parking place near the Commons Park, located right next to the Citadel grounds. I was still feeling under the weather but we ventured downtown for dinner at the Old Triangle, an Irish Pub near the water. The waitress kindly brought me some ginger ale, without ice, according to her mum. I started feeling better immediately. We had a nice evening eating and enjoying the music.

The Citadel

Changing of the guard

The next morning dawned clear and windy, a perfect day for viewing the hilltop fortress. The first fort built here in 1749 was a simple log structure staking Britain's claim to the harbor and lands around the harbor. The Mi'kmaq really didn't have much say in the matter as usual. Many settlers were shipped in from England and the continent to settle the lands and begin farming to support the growing town and it's shipping industry. Halifax played a central role in almost every war involving England, France, the US, for the next 200 years. The current Citadel dates back only to the early 1800's when Britain decided that if she wanted to keep a toehold in North America they had better protect Halifax and their great shipyard located in the Bedford Basin, a very safe and protected harbor inland of Halifax Harbor. The Citadel has undergone many changes over the years, all due to the increasingly sophisticated weaponry that would be used against it. When land based fortresses became obsolete with the advent of air dominated warfare, the Citadel was a state-of-the-art fortress. It was never attacked because it would have been impossible for any force to take it by land or sea. The British rotated their troops through their various empires, resting the regiments that were war weary and sending fresh troops to conflicts and active duty. Halifax was considered a resting place because of it's strong position in the area. The British Empire had an enormous army and navy. They were able to recruit large regiments by allowing the soldiers to keep their cultural identity, they created the Scottish, Irish, Wales and Indian brigades, to name just a few. The troops were allowed their own distinctive uniforms, music, and pastimes. 

learning about rifles

Changing of the guard

During our visits to the Citadel we were able to talk with many young men dressed in precisely replicated uniforms of the 78th Highlander Regiment. These fellows played their parts to the T! They knew the life of the soldier, the history of the Citadel and Halifax, as well as Canadian and English history. They played instruments, fired rifles and cannons and kept strict order among the unruly tourists. Parks Canada has done another fantastic job of making history come alive with the period actors, hands on activities and excellent exhibits and videos. Visitors were encouraged to try on uniforms, heavy woolen jackets and stylish feathered helmets. Every aspect of the soldier's life was explained and demonstrated. Every person we talked to could field any question we asked or would quickly find the answer for us if they didn't know it. 

squad for unruly tourists 

We were also lucky enough to visit the Citadel on the weekend when the WWI and WWII enthusiasts were dressed and ready for action. Halifax was a major player in both wars, the harbors and shipyard were the staging places for the convoys of ships cruising to England and Europe during those bloody conflicts. We talked to men representing British, Canadian and US soldiers as well as a few German, Russian, and Austrian soldiers. It is a fascinating way to learn about the history of the conflicts and, more importantly, the lives of the men serving their countries. War was not glorified in any way, I came away absolutely horrified at what the soldiers had experienced and the decisions they had been forced to make as leaders and warriors. By the end of each day that we were there I came away with my brain buzzing with excitement about what I had learned. Now if I could just figure out a way to remember it all! 

naptime

WWI and WWII interpreters

Saturday night was a big night in Halifax, it was "Nocturne",  an annual celebration of the arts. The town opened its doors for the whole evening, until midnight, with exhibits, shows, activities, performances, food, music... It was a beautiful clear night and the streets were packed! We started at the Citadel, where a local tech school had created a virtual reality, time travel, video, participatory game... They created a story where the folks at the Citadel were connected to some folks down on the waterfront through a computer and our job was to save the world from a devious evil dude. It was a little glitchy but we muddled through. Then we shuttled down to the waterfront and did the other end of the game, pretending to be the soldier who helps save the world. I'm not going to spend a lot of time trying to explain it. We were also able to visit the Maritime Museum and some of the ships in the harbor. It was a fun night but we were really tired when we finally got "home." I'm sure we could have spent a lot more time here in Halifax but we moved on down the road.

gas masks